Battle of the Brush: Why Your Hair System Colour Fades and How to Win the Fight

Here at New Wave Barnsley, we know that nothing beats the feeling of a freshly installed hair system with a perfectly matched, vibrant colour. It’s the finishing touch that makes the look truly undetectable.

However, a universal truth in the hair system community is that colour fading is inevitable. Unlike the hair growing from your scalp (your bio hair), the hair on your unit doesn't receive constant oils and nutrients, making it more vulnerable to the elements.

Understanding why this happens is the first step to preserving your perfect shade.

The Colour Conundrum: Why Hair Systems Fade Faster

The primary reason hair systems fade is oxidation and the lack of natural oils:

1. Oxidation (The Sun is NOT Your Friend): Sunlight’s UV rays break down the colour pigment in the hair. For natural hair, the pigment is constantly being renewed from the root, but for the system, once the colour is gone, it’s gone. This often causes dark hair (like browns and blacks) to develop a brassy, reddish, or orange tint as the natural red underlying pigment becomes exposed.

2. Lack of Sebum: Your natural hair is lubricated and protected by sebum (natural scalp oils). Your unit doesn't have this defense mechanism, meaning the hair strand's cuticle layer is more easily opened and damaged, allowing colour molecules to escape faster.

3. Washing and Cleansing: Frequent washing, especially with hot water or harsh, non-system-safe shampoos, physically strips the colour from the hair. Hot water opens the cuticle, accelerating the loss of pigment.

4. Heat Styling: Excessive heat from blow dryers, straighteners, or curlers damages the hair structure, making it dry, porous, and prone to rapid fading.

Your Battle Plan: 5 Ways to Fight the Fade

Don't let the thought of fading colour discourage you! By adopting these careful habits, you can significantly extend the life and vibrancy of your hair system:

1. Always Use UV Protection

UV damage is the number one enemy. Protecting your unit from the sun is just as important as using sun cream on your skin.

• The Fix: Invest in a UV protectant spray or leave-in conditioner formulated with UV filters. Apply a light layer before spending time outdoors.

• The Ultimate Fix: When spending extended time in direct sunlight (like on holiday or a long day out), wear a cap or hat. Shade is the best form of protection.

2. Wash Smarter, Not Harder

How you wash your unit directly impacts its colour retention.

• The Fix: Only use colour-safe, sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners. We recommend specific brands here at New Wave Barnsley that are designed to be gentle on unit hair and their bonds.

• Temperature Control: Always use lukewarm or cool water when washing your unit. This helps keep the hair cuticle closed, trapping the colour pigments inside.

• Reduce Frequency: Try to limit washing the unit to once or twice a week. Use dry shampoo on your bio hair in between appointments if needed.

3. Condition, Condition, Condition

Since the unit hair is constantly thirsty, you need to manually replace the moisture it loses.

• The Fix: Use a high-quality, system-friendly leave-in conditioner every few days. This keeps the hair hydrated, strengthens the cuticle, and prevents the dry, porous state that leads to rapid colour loss.

4. The Colour-Correction Secret Weapon

Despite your best efforts, a slight brassy tone (reddish-orange) might appear, especially on dark brown units.

• The Fix: Use a colour-depositing shampoo or conditioner. For brown shades, a blue- or green-pigmented product is often used to neutralize the unwanted red/orange undertones. For blondes, a purple shampoo counteracts yellowing. Ask us about Back2Natural products—they are specifically designed to address oxidation in men's hair systems. Use these sparingly and always patch test first!

5. Be Gentle with Heat

Minimize the use of heat tools, which accelerate the drying and fading process.

• The Fix: Whenever you use a blow dryer, always keep it on a cool or medium setting and use a heat protectant spray. Air drying is always the gentlest option.

The Bottom Line: A beautiful, undetectable hair system is worth the extra care. By making a few simple adjustments to your routine—focusing on UV protection, gentle washing, and regular conditioning—you can keep your colour looking fresh and natural between appointments.

Have questions about which colour-safe products are best for your unit? Pop into New Wave Barnsley and let us check your shade!